Captain´s Blog, Cumberland Island

At anchor, Cumberland Island, GA
This entry finds us several hundred miles down the Eastern Seaboard from the Chuckatuck Creek. Our passage and subsequent port stop in Charleston passed in a blur.The Carolina Capes (Hatteras, Lookout, and Fear) lived up to their reputation as we made our way South. We departed the Chesapeake with a fresh headwind, but were able to shape up nicely at ordered course full and by- we’re getting better at it- for Hatteras. Barely clear of the capes, Ali took a tumble down a ladder and sprained her ankle. Once we were sure it wasn’t fractured, we wrapped her up and stood her down. The weather continued to be squirrelly, and we went through a number of sail changes along the way. By the time we were abeam Hatteras, we were barreling along close hauled in a strengthening breeze. This became a strong headwind about the time we hit the Gulf Stream, which was running close to shore. The resulting sea and current made progress difficult and many hands return to the rail to commune with Neptune. The forecast promised a Northerly breeze in the next 12 hours, so we “hove to”, basically stopped the ship under sail to ease the motion, and waited it out. We lost about 30 miles to the ENE as we rode the mighty Gulf Stream, but gained a great deal of energy from the ship’s company. The breeze filled in as promised, and the ship’s routine returned to normal. Students give a daily progress report, updating all hands on our navigational progress, the weather forecast, fuel & water consumption, and any ship’s issues. We knew we were in for some light airs as a High Pressure system moved in, and tried to get as much sailing in as we could. Eventually, a little over a day out from Charleston, the breeze gave out and we gave in and started the engine. It was a sound we heard until dockside. I, for one, am looking forward to the more steady trade winds- even if they are head winds. During the passage, students refined their navigation skills as well as their ability to move through the ship and its operations with confidence and ability. They took on more responsibility for running routines, chores, and sail evolutions. They showed me that they are more than ready for the next phase of they voyage, where they step into the role of the Deckhands. In Charleston, the students scrubbed down the ship and were rewarded with a burgeoning mail call. I’ll let them fill you in on this welcoming and busy port. It was, as always, overloaded. The highlights: Sophie returned, Kayden visited, students talked to home for the first time, lots of exams and quizzes, field trips, provisioning, and errands. We got Ali’s ankle cleared by a doctor. There were visits from family, friends, alum, and onlookers. There were compliments all around from our hosts. Before departing, we officially shifted gears. The students are all in the same watches, but are standing with different mates and crew than they started with. It is the student voices we hear calling sail. They take point in running the logistics of the ship. This is a giant step in responsibility and leadership. I am confident that they will meet and exceed this challenge as they have done all along, but it won’t be easy.We anchored late yesterday afternoon, after a thirty hour passage. Mr. Greg Bailey joined the ship’s company as “supercargo”- to provide the extra license needed for our offshore transit. This is the “Mr. Bailey” who served last fall as mate on Spirit of Massachusetts, and is a welcome addition to our company. (Thanks to Vic of VIP taxi and the crew of the Lucy R. Ferguson for help with his luggage.) The students headed ashore before dawn to watch the sun come up. Cumberland Island is a favorite of our crew, and most are ashore as well. Tomorrow we shift to Fernandina Beach, FL (just a few miles away) to wrap up the final details before sailing for the Caribbean. Wind and weather depending, we’ll be outbound by sunset. The updates will include mostly position and conditions until we reach the Dominican Republic in a couple of weeks. The photos sent will be of darker skinned, lighter haired, salt encrusted young men and women. The video might show a swagger, and I promise any phone calls or e-mails will be in a language close to- but not quite- English. Wish us fair winds and safe passage.

-CJS
16 October 2009

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A Note from Zada Clark

A Note From My Journal”
by Zada Clark
Well, I am back from the horrible realm of seasickness {knock on wood}. It’s amazing how much everything improves once your body and mind feel good. The sun is shinning and we’re cruising along enroute to the Chesapeake Bay. Last night I had watch from 2000-0000 {8pm to midnight for you land folks}. The ocean was kind of eerie under the night sky, a misty blanket of fog spread over the mirror like sea. Standing by the bow I watched the ship slicing through the water creating foamy crests, which were tiny compared to the six feet of white water and spray we were experiencing earlier. Living on the sea, the ocean is both my enemy and my best friend. I love her, but she’s quite bipolar. One hour she’ll be moving and roaring, dotted with white water and surging with the most powerful force ever seen. She can calm down, become still and relaxed. This is when we get along the best. One of my favorite moments is bow watch. After heaving myself out of my bunk, bleary eyed and exhausted, it’s a relief to stand in one place and finally breathe. The ocean was finally all tucked in. A ripple would gently roll across, like a peaceful exhale of oxygen. There was no land last night as my eyes skimmed the horizon searching for the possible dangers of oncoming boats. Just miles and miles of sea, no end. The scene was undisturbed by neon lights and tall structures. I felt loneliness wash over me. Not a loneliness that makes you want to cry and be comforted by a friend. This loneliness carved an empty hole in my head that I couldn’t seem to fill with the noise of cars or sirens or loud hammering music because there weren’t any. The only sound was the whoosh of the wind against the forestay sail. It was just me and my new friend, the vast ocean. It was a silence that left me able to think to myself. Even though I had to stay alert. I was able to delve into my head. Picking apart and taking files out I hadn’t seen in quite some time. I love this moment when I’m alone, spending time with myself. As I look at Story, who’s on bow watch right now. I can make out her blank face. Even with all the hustle and bustle on deck, she has her back to it, head to the horizon. Spending time inside her head.
Zada Clarke

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Captain's Blog Chuckatuck Creek

From the banks of the Chuckatuck Creek, Eclipse, VA

At 1930 on Friday the 2nd, WESTWARD altered course towards the Cape Henry Pilot station at the mouth of the Chesapeake Bay. We’d had a spectacular romp of a sail leaving Mystic, making fast passage, followed by several hours of motoring in flat calm. Finally under sail again, we were bound for the Nansemond River- my home waters- and a couple of days of exploring salt marshes and inland fisheries.

The mate notified me that we were being hailed by the Virginia Pilots on the VHF radio. I was asked what our ETA was to our anchorage: “I’m on a phone call here, Cap, just wondering when you’ll be in…”. I responded that we’d be anchoring near midnight in the Nansemond River. “No problem Cap, you’ve got a couple of ships sailing from Norfolk, no other traffic”. The mate asked how they had known to hail us by name. The answer came quickly. The folks back home were eagerly anticipating our arrival. They’d called a friend in the Pilot’s Association, and asked them to see if we were in range.

This makes my fifth stop, and fourth Proctor trip, at home. My hometown turns out to make this field trip easy, fun, educational, and… delicious. Upon reaching cell phone range a couple of hours later, logistics were worked out. We anchored at midnight, stowed the ship, and turned to anchor watch. At 0900, two local boats belonging to friends and family were alongside to shuttle hands ashore. By 1000, students were launching canoes used for years by my mother’s Girl Scout troop from my parent’s dock.

There were classes on salt marsh ecology and the Chesapeake’s resources and environmental challenges, some led by Karla Smith, my mom- a retired teacher of 40 years who’s not lost her passion for education. This followed by a muddy romp through the marsh in question and quality time with a fresh water hose. To cap off a beautiful day, other friends and neighbors rolled out the welcome mat with a dinner feast. My father steamed a bushel of crabs, friends brought fresh baked goodies to round out the fried chicken, barbeque, salads, and other fare. Students, crew, friends, family, and neighbors visited and asked questions. At sunset, we loaded the boats and headed for home- our home- WESTWARD.

On Sunday, students went ashore again, and talked to Mr. Robbie Johnson and his son Ben (twin brother of the Pilot who had us hailed), local watermen who crab and oyster on the James River. They toured a soft shell crabbing operation, and had looked over a couple of Chesapeake Bay Deadrise boats- shoal draft fishing vessels specific to the region. Then, back to the ship.

This is a trip I look forward to being able to offer- but one that always hangs on that fine thread of wind, weather, schedule, and curriculum. It wasn’t without its hitches. A couple of medical issues took us to the Urgent Care/ Emergency Room- and a mystery illness sent Sophie Viandier home (to rejoin in Charleston once cured and cleared)- and delayed our departure by a day. Again, though, local support made these events as painless as possible.

So I write this entry as a THANK YOU. Thank you to the teachers for humoring a whim of the captain, to the students for being polite, respectful, and enthusiastic with their hosts. Most of all, THANK YOU Karla and Jimmy Smith (Mom & Dad), for hosting yet another ship’s company at your home. Thank you for your generosity with boats, cars, docks, dogs, equipment, T-shirts, information, and food. THANK YOU to Bill & Betsy Daughtry, Jean Hodges, Cathy Roberts, Robbie, Ben, and Jacob Johnson for the food, crabs, boat runs, and friendship. Finally, thank you to the communities of Crittenden, Eclipse, and Hobson for another warm welcome and for all of your support.

We depart for Charleston via the Carolina Capes with 33 souls on board, an unsettled forecast and high spirits. We look forward to the passage, to Charleston, and to Sophie’s return. Look forward to- in the words of the National Weather Service- “more to follow”.
-CJS
6 October 2009

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An Aloft Experience - By Derric Tankersley

It was right after breakfast and I wasn't doing much on deck. I was actually singing my personal remake of a Soulja Boy song, its called "Just Chillen". Then Mr.Fleming, our first mate, came to me and said "Get a harness." Excited for what I thought was going to be a trip out to the bow sprit to untie the jib. I was very wrong. I was actually about to go aloft to untie the course sail; which is very high up and attached to yard. When I realised what I was about to do a rush of nerves instantly came over me, and before I knew it we were going over safety regulations. My heart started pounding in my chest. Then my body began to shake as I approached the shrouds. I climbed right up the shrouds one step at a time following Ms.Anderson, our third mate; behind me was Mina who continued to talk to me so that I remained calm. Once we got to the top it was time to wrap myself on top of the yard supported by a single wire and strapped into another. There I frantically untied the ties of the course. When I finished with the ties I remained up there while Ms.Anderson fixed some lines further down and I was able to take in the beautiful view. I could see everything. It was absolutly amazing. Finally, as fast as I had gotten up it was time to return down to the deck. Safely making it down I gladly took the first seat I saw available so I could relax myself. That was my first aloft expierience, and I loved every minute of it.

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Captain's Log Archive

Greetings from Mystic, CT, as we near the end of our first week as a ship’s company aboard the- fondly dubbed- “Mighty Windship WESTWARD”.  Thirty- four souls on board, plus West- our ship’s dog and Morale Officer.  All hands (and paws) are working hard to master the nuances of life aboard.

 

As always, for me, one of the biggest challenges is learning so many names.  My crew constantly show me up in this department, as they have a lot more one-on-one time with the students, especially this early on. 

 

The view from back aft on the Quarterdeck is one of carefully organized bustle and activity. Our new hands are rapidly learning a new language and culture- one that is old and time honored, and will shape the next several weeks of all of our lives.  Floors, ceilings, toilets, walls, the kitchen, outside, inside, stairs- all have different names or the words mean something different than what you’d expect.  There are about 50 lines to learn the names and functions of, and carefully structured “how to’s” for cleaning, dish-washing, climbing ladders, relieving the helm, and where its safe to walk and stand. Even the ship’s heads (toilets) are stick-shift versions instead of automatics. All of this information is important from the first day- and all comes second to the Emergency plans, equipment, and drills. 

 

And the sailing!  We got to set sail just off the dock in Boston- what we call “four lowers”- both for show and to put all hands in the proper mindset for a sailing voyage.  The next day was a coveted downwind sail under our squares to Gloucester- allowing great opportunities for students to get aloft and really experience traditional sailing.  After a great day ashore in Gloucester, the wind picked up with a passing cold front, and Friday found us bowling along to Provincetown under reefed main, staysl’s, and jib at 8 knots in 5-7 foot seas.  We had a little introduction to Mal-de-Mer, but a spectacular day.

 

I’m sure students were relieved that Saturday broke calm, forcing us to motor-sail across Cape Cod Bay to the Canal.  As we waited for the tide to go fair, the glassy seas gave us the opportunity to spy on a large sunfish, practice Man Overboard Drills, and then to have a swim call.  And Sunday rounded out our sailing and weather with a rainy, foggy, cold, and blustery motor sail to windward from Buzzard’s Bay to Mystic.  We arrived soggy and cold to the welcoming and familiar faces of the Seaport, and Jackson’s grandparents huddled under an umbrella watching our arrival. 

 

These hands probably don’t realize it, but they’re the most real exhibit in this museum.  While the students immediately turned to stowing the ship- furling down, squaring yards, setting flags, coiling down lines, rigging gangways and chafe gear, dock lines and fenders, West checked out nearby sticks and passers by.  They hit the dock with a little roll in their step as they turn to these still new tasks like weathered salts.  The next leg of the voyage will be about 400 nautical miles.  So far we’ve made about 150 miles.  I feel we’re all on our way to being prepared for sea.

 

-CJS

27 Sept ‘09

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Ocean Classroom Fall 2009

It has been one full week since 22 students from Proctor Academy joined the Westward and set sail from Boston, MA.  In many ways the days have flown by, yet the positive chemistry of this crew tricks the mind into feeling as if we have always been.  

After departing Boston we sailed north to Gloucester, MA.  Our first port stop provided us with a complete 5 star day.  As the morning sun baked the air students took their first small boat run ashore.  Landing at the beach we all swayed with the rhythm of the sea, confirming our newly acquired sea legs.

The day's events began with a hands on science class discussing tide pools ecology followed by lunch and yoga kick ball in the park.  Our day continued with an action packed visit to the Gloucester Fish Auction.  During our behind the scenes tour we were fortunate to meet Rob, a NOAA fisheries biologist, who was happy to show the students how to remove ear bones from a halibut which he later uses to age the fish in his lab.  As we were preparing to leave our luck continued as a fishing boat captain dropped by and passionately ranted about fishing policy and how it has changed in the thirty years he has been in the business.

Waving goodbye to Gloucester's rocky shore and rusty boats we hauled up our anchor and reefed the main sail, preparing to sail towards Provincetown.  The Westward rolled and pitched in the waves and many of the students lined the leeward rail.  Fortunately, this was the perfect place to view the charismatic megafauna that frequent Stellwagen bank, including breaching humpback whales and a sunbathing mola mola.

September 29, 2009

Westward arrived in Mystic Seaport around 16:00 on a Sunday afternoon.  Our passage had been rainy and gray.  The drizzle stopped and the skies began to clear as we tied up to Chubbs Wharf next to the LA Dunton, an original Gloucester fishing schooner built in the 1920s.  

That evening after dinner, all the students and much of the crew piled into the Treworgy Planetarium.  In the clear simulated night sky, we learned to find Orion and the navigational stars that will help us find our way to the Caribbean.  

The next day we explored the rich grounds of the Mystic Seaport Museum of America and the Sea.  We have been studying the history of New England fisheries in history class.  Students saw this history come to life in the seaport.  We saw a cod splitting and drying demonstration.  Afterwards, we investigated the 19th century seaport village.  Students explored the various shore based maritime industries that contributed to fishing and global trade.  Students learned about the ropewalk building, blacksmith shop, cooperage, printing press, navigational aids shop, and sail maker.  They also learned about the role of women in the community.  We relaxed in the afternoon at a private concert by internationally renown shantyman Don Sinetti.  We finished our seaport excursion with a visit to the beautiful replica of the tops'l schooner Amistad.  Aboard, crew told us about the daring slave rebellion that occurred in 1839 and the long fight in the US court system for the freedom of the Africans.  The night ended with a viewing of the film Around Cape Horn, narrated by Irving Johnson.  The film includes some of the only original footage of a tall ship (The Peaking, which can now be visited in NYC) rounding Cape Horn.  

We had the amazing opportunity to row whale boats the next morning around the Mystic River. We had read the account of the whaleship Essex, and now we understood first hand how challenging it is to row a whaleboat.  It was difficult in calm waters and we can only imagine how tiring it would be in the seas of the open ocean while trying to harpoon a whale.  Later in the day, we visited the Charles W. Morgan, the last remaining original wooden whaling ship.

Built in the 1840s and sailing well into the 20th Century, the Morgan sailed all over the globe hunting the ever decreasing whale population.  We spent the rest of the day studying the vast museum collections.  We also had the opportunity midday to visit the town of Mystic where some of us decided to try Mystic Pizza, which gained fame in the Julia Roberts film by the same name.  

September Thirtieth, Two Thousand and Nine

Now we begin our passage to the Chesapeake Bay.  Like Masefield we feel the sea fever and, although our time ashore has been well spent, cannot resist the wind's song and long to feel the wheel's kick and hear the white sails shaking.  Now the students are ready to sail through the night and dance to the rhythm of shipboard life.

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