Student Writing from Bequia

Author: Danielle Woodward

March 6, 2011

Bequia

Sea turtles are beautiful animals. The swim so very gracefully through the oceans; they travel for years and are able to return to the beach of their birth. Unfortunately, these amazing reptiles are declining due to hunting. However, one man in the Caribbean has taken the initiative to try and save these unique creatures.

At first glance, Brother King is just an ordinary man. He has a medium height and build with a short grey beard and hair. He lives on the island of Bequia where sea turtles continue to be hunted. He, however, doesn’t kill them; he saves them. Brother King owns and runs the Old Hegg Sea Turtle Sanctuary. Here he raises hawksbill and green sea turtles from tiny babies until they’re big enough and strong enough to survive on their own. When hatching season comes about, he goes our onto the beach to collect all the young that he can. From there, they live at his compound until he thinks they’re ready for the wild. With hawksbill he cares for them for five years. Green sea turtles stay a year longer.

I can honestly say that Brother King is unlike any other human I’ve ever met. That he cared for these animals was wonderfully clear. He said that he had been prepared since the age of six to save sea turtles. At that time, he saw grown men cracking open sea turtle eggs and eating the insides raw. He decided to try it as well. He cracked and egg, swallowed it, and promptly began vomiting. It was then, he said, that he knew he wouldn’t always hunt sea turtles. As he grew older, and took his part in catching sea turtles, he decided to stop hunting and start helping.

Brother King is a great man and the Old Hegg Sea Turtle Sanctuary is a wonderful place. It’s almost ironic that a country that so freely kills sea turtles should have produced a man so intent on saving them. Whether the island and the animals realize it or not, they’re very lucky to have him.

Author: Milo Stanley

Date: March 6, 2011

Throughout our travels in the Caribbean, we have had the opportunity to experience much of the tradition, eating traditional food, attending traditional festivals, and witnessing traditional culture in general.

While we were in Bequia, one of the main points of our visit was to see the traditional whaling boats and learn more about Bequian whaling. Bequian whaling is a descendent of Yankee whaling. The main difference being the New Englanders operated from mother ships while the Bequians operated off the beach with lookouts on hills to watch for whales. The whaleboats themselves, longer, double ended, open boats, have been changed very little from their American ancestors and can be fitted with racing rigs for the very popular annual Easter Regatta held in Bequia.

Upon the sighting of a whale, the whaling crew will set off in its direction under sail or oar, the harpooner ready on the bow, a long tether leading aft from his harpoon to the loggerhead (a sturdy, round post in the back of the boat). The objective of the whalers is to sneak close enough to the whale to harpoon it with a special harpoon head that breaks off inside the whale and holds fast. After being pulled around, they will attempted to kill it by repeatedly stabbing it with a wooding killing lance, in an attempt to find the heart or lungs, or shooting it with a bomb gun, an unpleasant instrument whose workings I won’t go into. When the whales starts spouting blood, the whalers back off while the whale goes into its death throws. When it is finally dead, a motor vessel is called for to tow the whale back to a cutting station, where it is cut up, and its various products are divided amongst the whalers, and those who show up to help with the butchering.

Though bloody and dangerous, Bequian whaling is an honored tradition, and a source of pride for the country. The killing of a whale is a national holiday and Bequian schools are let out and business shut down for the event. Whales around Bequia are rare, but the whaling traditions are active and well.

Author: Cree Lehman

Location of Piece: Bequia

She steps onto the dock soaked with salt spray. They sky is stormy today and it has been raining on and off all morning. Even though it has been a rough morning, she cannot help but smile once on land. Being ashore always brings that same feeling, a feeling of comfort and happiness. Today is different though, even with a smalls miles on her lips, she still feels down and sad. The lump is still in her throat, the one she gets just before crying. This day has not started out the way she would have liked, happy and upbeat.

The group she is a part of gathers, talking about what the day’s events will be. Her mind wanders as she looks around the small town they have comes to. Everyone disperses and climbs into two open air taxis. Se scrambles to get into the taxi that is pumping Bob Marley. Music that has been recorded is now a luxury since she never hears it on the boat. By this time it is pouring rain. She ducks her head while keeping the tears at bay. The weather seems to be in tune with her emotions. With a jolt the taxi driver peels onto the main road taking her and all the rest away from this port of the island. She watches this foreign world with curious eyes. Eventually they stop to see the authentic whaling boats. Not much about whaling interests her, so she half listens while watching the waves crash on the beach. What a beautiful beach it is, especially when the rain is falling. Down to that beach they walked. They sand is soft beneath her toes and the water warm as it laps against her ankles. When permission is given to swim, the rain is coming down harder than ever. She sits under a porch at first. Then, all at once, strips down to her swimsuit and sprints to the water, diving head first into the green water and algae. Bliss. The ocean feels warm, encasing her body as the cool sting of rain hits her face. It isn’t so bad, swimming in the ocean while it rains, on an island far away in the Caribbean.

Read more...

Student Writing From Dominica

Author: Bahia Gordillo

March 6, 2011

Location of Piece: Dominica

I think Dominica is the place that I have enjoyed the most since the beginning of this trip. We spent just a few days here, but I feel like I already know everything. The streets are nice, you see everyone walking in the middle and you feel secure. You always hear reggae music as background and loud voices, singing, talking or laughing. The food was very good. They had amazing bread and delicious fresh fruit smoothies. We ate a lot of tropical fruit. We had guava, grapefruit, plantain, and a lot more with unique names. They also have amazing vegetation. The trees were so big and birds were everywhere. We went to the boiling lake. I had never seen something like that. It was actually boiling and we even cooked eggs in it. We also had the chance to go swimming a couple of times. The first time was in warm natural water and then in cold running water. It’s funny to think that all those different temperatures of water are in the same place. Dominicans are really friendly people. Sea Cat, our guide, was proud of his country and kept telling us the good things so that we would come back again. In our last day there Carnival started. It was a big party in the street with people dancing everywhere. We could see young people and old once all together in a big celebration. Dominica is a very interesting country. I’m sure there is a lot more to learn about Dominica and I’m definitely coming back some day.

Author: Ben H

March 6, 2011

Location of Piece: Dominica

Dominica was sweet. We spent some time in Roseau, the capital city. We also visited the Carib territory, the land in which the native Caribbeans first and still do inhabit. Following that we had the opportunity to climb one of the nine volcanoes making up Dominica.

Roseau is a cool town. There’s a local market where people sell their produce. We brought an assortment of different foods that Lizzie needed for cooking. There were also bakeries that had delicious baked goods, and some local vendors set up along the side roads.

After a day in Roseau, we took a couple of vans up and through Carib territory. Our driver, who was known as Sea Cat, drove us up through the rainforest, stopping all along the way for us to pick up exotic fresh fruits. I couldn’t tell you half the names, but they were delicious! Sea Cat took us to a grapefruit and sugar cane plantation. We brought back a couple of sacks of grapefruit and completely restocked the ship. We also ate some sugar cane which was surprisingly good with limes. After we finished there, we continued on towards Carib territory. We made a couple more fruit stops, then a stop at a cocoa farm, where we grinded some beans, mixed the grinds with milk, and made fantastic chocolate. Finally we arrived in Carib territory, which was very neat. We tried some bread made by a couple of local men. They first took a cassava root and carved the bark off the side. They then grinded the inside of the root into Cassava flour with a grated wheel spun by a wooden paddle pulling down on a rope connected to a stick, spinning the wheel. After that, they would make patties out of the flour and cook them on a piece of cast iron resting over a wood fire, finally ending up with a very good piece of warm, soft cassava bread. I had the chance to have a conversation with a local Carib who explained to me his culture and history. He explained that his people were there before Columbus, and that Columbus had no right in claiming their land and killing their people. “Caribs were here first man,” he repeated in his Caribbean accent, “Caribs were here first. I really enjoyed hearing his local view of their history and culture.

Following that great day was another, hiking up a volcano through the rain forest. Sea Cat actually took us on that hike, showing and teaching us about tropical plants and trees. The volcano is dormant but not extinct, so there were all sorts of thermal activity. Sea Cat even had boiled some eggs for us in a boiling river. After about seven or eight mile hike, we reached the boiling lake, a huge lake bubbling and steaming. Standing on top of a fifty-foot cliff, looking down at the lake, you could feel the hot steam fly past you as the wind shifted. We hung out at the top for a while and had some fantastic local salt fish, plantains, and passion fruit juice. After lunch we began our treck back down the volcano. About a quarter of the way down, we stopped and soaked in a hot spring river, which was very relaxing. We then continued down, getting to the bottom a few hours later. Exhausted, hot and sweaty, we jumped into a deep cold, fresh water stream running through a deep rock gorge. This was very refreshing and much needed after a hike like that! Hiking a volcano was a great experience, our entire time in Dominica was fantastic, its definitely been my favorite stop so far, but I’m sure that will change as we explore new places.

Read more...

Shipboard Life--Student Writing

Author: Emily Wallace

March 6, 2011

If you were to ask your average passer by what the role of movement plays in their day to day life, definitions would vary immensely.  Not a single one of those definitions would compare to that of a sailor.

I have always thought of life as a sort of lyrical dance, or movement.  I, my feelings, people, places, and things move.  After signing aboard the Harvey Gamage, my personal perception and definition of movement was stretched, skewed.  Executed through every emotion the human condition could allow or possibly conjure.

Each morning underway, I arise, or on some occasions (quite more often than not) I am propelled out of my rack.  My eyes open to find all of my belongings adrift.  Books flung from places unknown and I could swear I had stowed them adequately.  Getting dressed is a process land people take for granted, a process I once took for granted.  With each roll from starboard (right) to port (left) an arm and a leg make their way through a sleeve of a pant leg.  To another this process of getting dressed could seem as though I’ve never dressed before.  In some cases as if I were doing some sort of jig.  On a ship each movement is magnified.  Steps are added to the most simple of tasks.  A sailor’s movement requires a finesse that only develops with each passage.

Once dressed, I make my way up the ladder swiftly.  Still awakening from a dream state I stumble with each step eyes squinted attempting to find an object to ground me.  As if just preparing for the journey from bunk to deck didn’t ignite enough frustrations, simple tasks such as eating becomes a competitions between you and your food.  The contents of my mug meets my lips before they’ve even had a chance to separate.  Each motion of the fork to plate, back to my mouth leaves a potential for disaster.
 
Now one month in, my sea legs growing strong, I have begun to move with the sea.  I have begun to move through life in a fashion only known to those aboard a ship at sea.  Life in motion unyielding to your wants, perhaps needs opens your eyes, forcing you to realize each movement matters regardless of how minuscule it may be. 

Author:  Sam Moskowitz

March 6, 2011

Title: A Day in the Life of a Student

The typical day at anchor for a student starts with a wake up at 0700.  At about 0715 all students will “muster” midships (gather at the half way point between the bow and stern).  The head educator, Johnny, will lay out the plans for the day.  Then Captain Flansburg will give announcements.  After his morning talk, the watches will start their chores; deck wash, brass, and soles and bowls (which watch does what will depend on our watch rotation).  We usually finish with our chores by between 0745 and 0750.  At 0800, 8 bells are rung signaling the flags to go up after flags.  After flags, the three bells are rung to signal the on coming watch to eat breakfast.  After the first watch gets through the line, the other two watches can eat and then, last but not least, the crew goes through.  Depending on what we are doing that day, the educators will make up a packing list.  After everybody is packed and the small boats are launched, boat runs will start.  Often times, we will buy lunch on our outing.  But if we are scheduled to be at a place when where we will not be able to buy a lunch for ourselves, we will make ourselves a PB & J to go.  We usually get back to the boat around 1700 (5:00 pm).  Just enough time to discuss the day’s events and set up for dinner.  After dinner, we might have a class or a study hall until lights out, which is at 22:00.  At this time anchor watches commence until 0700 the next morning.  Then the cycle starts again.

Read more...

Carnival!!

Carnival is a fantastic time to be in Trinidad. Everyone, locals and tourists alike, are awash in excitement and anticipation for the next event of a busy and colorful season. Once arriving at our anchorage, we sampled Carnival at the Kid's Carnival parade on Saturday, and spent time in Port of Spain shopping, eating doubles and roti, and exploring a city on the verge of its biggest day of the year.



Soca, or soul calypso, provides the soundtrack of the Carnival season, and blares from the flatbed of 18-wheeled trucks loaded with speakers so powerful you feel the soundwaves reverberate through your chest. The songs are frenetic, addicting like good pop music always is, and very uniquely Trinidadian.

Before we head into Carnival proper on Tuesday, we'll have already explored much of the island, from urban Port of Spain to the switchbacks of the mountains and down to the coastline. At the Asa Wright bird sanctuary we familiarized ourselves with the crested oropendola, green and red-legged honey creepers, and white-necked Jacobin hummingbirds, and sampled bake and shark sandwiches at the popular Maracas Bay beach. This afternoon we'll charge through the mangrove swamp to watch the magnificent scarlet ibis, which once provided much of the color in Carnival costumes, roost for the night after feeding all day in neighboring Venezuela.

All are well aboard and look forward to Carnival and our longest passage of the trip yet, bound for the Greater Antilles.

JP

Read more...

Chacachacare

On March 3, 2011 we transited from the mainland of Trinidad to the island of Chacachacare. The island is uninhabited but for two intrepid lighthouse keepers and the ghosts of the leper colony abandoned in 1984. We spent the afternoon exploring the ruins of the colony by ruffling through old supplies and exploring rustic building reclaimed by nature. After our expedition (recorded in photos below) we jumped in the water for a sparkling night swim in the bioluminescence of the bay.

Below: The crew exploring Chacachacare, the abandoned leper colony.

Below: Sam exploring at Chacachacare.

Below: Ashley and Will explore abandoned medical records.

Below: Jon, Ben, and Wyatt exploring the old hospital at Chacachacare.

Below: The Harvey Gamage anchored at Chacachacare

Below: Theo and Bahia exploring ruins.

Read more...

Coconuts in Port Elizabeth, Bequia

Location: Port Elizabeth, Bequia

February 26, 2011

Author: Ashley Charles

As I made my way through the soft sand, I glanced up at the sky, gray and morose. It had been raining all day, but our group decided to stick it out. We have a saying back at my school, “there’s no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing.” Silently cursing myself for not bringing a rain jacket, I did not doubt it was true. To escape the downpour, we took refuge under an awning. Before I ducked under, I grabbed two small coconuts from the ground.

I began to juggle them, partly because I was bored, and partly because the rain wasn’t letting up. Captain Flansburg ambled over to view my lone spectacle, and politely asked for the coconuts. To my amazement, he juggled them with one hand, and then found a small nut so he could throw three. When he began to tell me how to do it, I started to laugh. Look at me, I thought, juggling coconuts on an island I can’t properly pronounce!

He handed me the coconuts and said to throw them a million times. Well, only 999,987 tries to go.

Read more...